Submersible Aquarium Heaters

Are aquarium heaters fully submersible?

I have a tetratec one but it doesnt say whether it is or it isnt.
Its a Tetratec HT200. (225L-300L)

It depends on the heater some are some aren't as for the Tetratec HT200 according to the information I have found it is fully submersible

For More Submersible Aquarium Heaters Info Click On The Blue Links Below

Although it can be a challenge it is not impossible to breed these lizards. In my last article I talked about their housing and feeding needs, so in this one I will concentrate on their breeding requirements. Picking up a breeding pair is fairly hard because it is hard to sex water dragons, but if you stick to breeders who know how you should be alright. To do this at a pet store yourself where the employee is not too sure I would suggest looking for the following characteristics. Males usually have bigger rooster combs at about a half a year old, and females tend to scrap it out at an early age of about 4 months. You could try buying 3 hatchling and take your chances but be prepared to keep 3 enclosures because sometimes water dragons regardless of sex just will not get along. At around late fall and winter water dragons will start to breed. So in the early fall lower your light period which is usually around 12 to 14 hours a day to around 10 hours a day and decrease feeding to about once a week. Heating should be lowered at night to about 74 degrees and back up during the day to 85 for about two months and then return everything back to normal. When they do decide to breed you may get a little freaked because the male will grab the female by the neck violently and drag her off to his favourite spot and breed her several times.

Within the next 20 days you will need to set up a lay box for the gravid female. This box should be about 20 inches long by 12 inches wide by about 18 inches deep and should be kept away from the water tub. Fill it with damp soil and sphagnum moss to about 10 to 12 inches making sure the mixture is not to wet or to dry. When picked up and packed it should not fall completely apart or ooze water so when she digs it will not fall back into the hole or pool water. If done wrong she may hold onto the eggs and get egg bound which is a very serious condition. When she is ready she will start her digging process and then lay up to an average of 8 to 14 eggs. Sometimes you will see her digging a second hole on the other side of the lay box as a decoy.

You can make your own incubator by using a 20 gallon fish tank and adding 3 and a half inches of water, and then placing a 75 watt submersible aquarium heater in the water. Place a brick in the water so that a plastic storage container can be placed on top of it above the water level. Fill the container with an inch or so of moistened vermiculite (10 parts vermiculite to one part water by volume). A thermometer is placed inside the storage box, and a lid with an eighth inch hole in each corner is put on top the fish tank. Adjust the temperature on the heater until you achieve the proper temps for incubation (84-86 degrees). Now dig up the eggs, being very careful not to turn them at all. Bury the eggs in the container two thirds of the way covered and about an inch apart from each other. In about 55 to 70 days you should have hatchlings, in-between this time you should check eggs for yellowing or mold. If an egg is yellow or has mold you just throw it out, but if mold is present you can reduce humidity by opening the lid a little for a few hours a day. I suggest you check the eggs about twice a week and make sure they are in an area where they are not being bumped or vibrated.

When your baby lizards hatch be sure to remove them quickly so they do not injure any other eggs, and as a side note I would suggest putting some floating bark in the water just in case a baby decides to go for a swim. Place babies into their enclosure, it should be set up like the adults but on a smaller scale.The water tub needs a branch to avoid drowning and food sources should be sized accordingly.

If you would like more information on lizards and reptiles please visit my blog at Leopecko: http://leopecko.com/blog/

Many thanks for reading our Submersible Aquarium Heaters article

Submersible Aquarium Heater

Where is the cheapest place to buy a submersible aquarium heater, i live in dallas tx area?

reasonabley priced place to buy, not necissarily the cheapest

Hey Tex,you are mixing water and electricity. Are you sure you want the cheapest?

For More Submersible Aquarium Heater Info Click On The Blue Links Below

Unless you plan to keep only cold water fish, you'll need to choose an aquarium heater. Fish cannot provide their own body heat. This is often thought of as being "cold blooded," but this is a misnomer. The temperature of these animals is directly related to the temperature of their environment. The ambient room temperature generally will not provide enough warmth for your fish, so you will need to invest in a proper heater. Maintaining a proper water temperature is an essential step in keeping your fish healthy. Most fish will need to be kept in water that is between 78 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

Aquarium heaters are available in different types based on how and where they supply the heat. Most heaters have a control which allows you to adjust the heat to the proper temperature and most contain a thermostat which keeps the temperature at an even level. Here is a quick look at your different options.

Submersible and Immersible Heaters

As the name implies, submersible heaters are made to be fully submerged in water. Immersible heaters are mostly submerged, however, the controls must remain above the waterline. Immersible heaters frequently hang from the back or side of the tank. Both submersible and immersible aquarium heaters are effective and relatively inexpensive. Because they are inexpensive, it is easy to keep an extra heater of this type on hand as a back-up in case your primary heater fails. Because at least part of the heater may show in the tank, these can be difficult to camouflage; generally submersible heaters are easier to camouflage than immersible heaters. These heaters may be made from glass, plastic, aluminum or titanium alloy. Some models can create "hot spots," but in a tank where the water circulates well, this is generally not a problem.

Substrate Heaters

These types of aquarium heaters heat the water from the bottom up. These heaters are installed below the rock, gravel, sand, or other substrate material used in your aquarium. They provide heat that is more uniform than submersible or immersible heaters. Typically they are completely hidden by the substrate material, making them a very attractive choice. If you have an aquarium with live plants, this heater is a good choice as it promotes plant growth. These heaters are also the most popular style in Europe.

The drawback of this type of heater is that it is installed under the substrate. While it is easy to install such a heater when you are initially setting up your tank, if your tank is already established, it will have to be taken down to install or repair such a heater.

Filter Heaters

Filter heaters are one of the newest kinds of heaters available. These heaters consist of heating blocks that are placed inside the filter. This heats the water during the filtration process, providing even heating. These types of heaters are camouflaged inside the filter itself. These types of filters can be expensive and are not as common.

What? Watt!

Once you've chosen your heater style, you'll need to know what wattage will be required to keep your aquarium at the right temperature. Generally, you should multiply the gallons of water your tank will hold by 5 to get the number of watts to purchase. For example, a 20 gallon tank would require a 100 watt heater. If your aquarium is large, you may wish to use more than one heater to provide the necessary wattage. For example, a 50 gallon tank requires 250 watts of heating power. Two 125 watt immersible heaters, one at either end of the tank, would provide the right amount of heating. The other advantage of using more than one heater is that in the event of a heater failure, the temperature in the tank will not plummet as quickly, giving you a little extra time to get another heater installed; when you have a considerable financial investment in fish and animals, this can be important.

Keeping an Eye on the Temperature

An essential part of the heater purchase is a separate thermometer. This will allow you to double-check your water temperature and make any necessary corrections, and to spot a heater thermostat that may be beginning to malfunction. Fluctuations in temperature can cause stress to your fish, undermining their health. Thermometers are available in several styles, from glass thermometers that float in the tank, to digital models that sit outside the tank.

Handling a Heater When Its Hot

If your heater has been on, turn it off and unplug it for a minimum of 15 minutes before you remove it from the aquarium. Otherwise the heater can crack from the change in temperature, or overheat. Even if you will not be removing the aquarium heater, it is a good idea to unplug the heater when you are working in the aquarium, changing the water, for example. Aquarium heaters are electrical appliances and electricity and water DO NOT MIX. Always use proper safety precautions. Make sure that the heater is properly submerged in water when it is in use, whether it is a style designed for complete submersion or only partial immersion; this means keeping an eye on your water level and replenishing the water in the tank as needed.

Author- Len Loman

About Best Pet Lighting:

Our site is best known for having the right equipment for the right aquarium. We will soon have great articles up on all areas of care for your aquarium but our main focus is Aquarium Lights And Aquarium Heaters

Many thanks for reading our Submersible Aquarium Heater article