Fish Tank Heater

What could I use to warm my fish tank instead of a heater for fish?

My fish tank is really cold, but I'm not allowed to buy a fish tank heater. Is there anything I could use as an alternative?
Is there anything made for fish that I could put inside instead of a heater to make it warm?
I have mollies, I don't know what the temperature is, and my dad doesn't want to spend money on a heater. >___>

If your fish tank has lights in the hood, this will help raise the water temperature. If it does not, you could even point a desk lamp at it.

Even though sunlight does cause algae to bloom, the temperature of the water is more important. If you have goldfish, they prefer cooler, room temp. water. Tropical fish however, such as Platies, Barbs, Danios, Glofish, Guppies etc. prefer 74 to 80 degrees.

Heaters are not very expensive. Talk to whoever is saying you can not have one and explain that the fish need it. They have a very long life, are fairly inexpensive and don't use much electricity. Most heaters have an automatic shut off, and you can set the temperature to your desired level. The heater will turn off and on as needed. You just need to make sure that the heater is submerged to the water level marked on the heater.

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Well, I'm sure that some of you new aquarists out there already know about the necessary accessories to be put in an aquarium, or to be specific, in tropical aquariums. The heater is one of the necessary items that are vital to any tropical aquarium, because it regulates the freshwater aquarium temperature, making it a more or less exact replica of a tropical fish's natural habitat, enabling it to do the activities it normally would on natural conditions. However, proper methods of placing this important item also have a considerable significance, if you want to achieve the full effect of this important aquarium accessory.

Factors Affecting Heater Efficiency

There are several factors according to which the efficiency of an aquarium heater can be rated. Some consider the overall wattage of the unit; others consider the actual temperature setting, and still others suggest the use of multiple heaters in a single fish tank. However, the proper placement of the heater in the aquarium is one criterion that, in my opinion, should not be missed, regardless of the size, the volume, and the general population of aquatic life in the aquarium.

Proper Placement Means Finding the Overall Water Flow

If you want a generic place to place the heater for maximum freshwater aquarium temperature control, find a good spot where the water flows abundantly. This place could either be an inlet or outlet from other mechanical sources - such as a filter -, from spots where water would usually flow (like the area around a power head or any other commercial aquarium water pump), or from any other source where water would usually flow, as long as good circulation can be achieved. This way, heated water from these areas could easily flow around the tank, heating it, as well as easing the circulation method.

Heat Circulation in a Liquid

If you need a more in depth explanation for this technique, it's relatively simple. Liquids, by themselves, are just like any other kind of matter in the universe. They contain mass in equated amounts throughout the solution. Heating one area of the liquid doesn't necessarily raise the temperature of the whole liquid, because you're just raising the temperature of that specific area where the heater is.

The reason why the whole liquid gets heated over time is because the warmer part of the liquid rises, allowing the cooler liquid to flow downwards, and then the cooler water gets heated, making it rise again and allowing the next "batch" of cooler liquid to go down and get heated. This process is repeated until a uniform temperature is achieved.

The water in an aquarium works the same way, but because of the relatively large volume of water present in these kind of liquid containers, waiting for the water to circulate by itself by just letting the heater do all the work just isn't practical, plus you risk stressing the fish when the water is not heated enough at a certain period of time. This is why proper placement of the heater is as equally important as the other criteria, and besides, if it's something for the betterment of your fish, wouldn't you try following a helpful advice anyway?

Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on freshwater aquarium temperature, visit http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/

Many thanks for reading our Fish Tank Heater article

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Java Fern Live

Why would putting a live java fern in my tank kill all of my guppies?

I recently purchased a couple of java ferns for my fish tank and within 12 hours, all of my guppies were dead. I ran the filter and did a partial water change, added Stress Coat, and bought more guppies, who again died with in 12 hours. What gives?

Take a sample of the water to your fish store to have them test it and then you can see if the water is bad or something. By chance did yo spray anything in the room lately that might have gotten into the tank or have you put your hand in the tank that might have had something on it? That is more likely or your tank might not be properly cycled.

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Freshwater aquarium plants are very important parts of any typical aquarium. These plants can give you're a great look to your aquarium. Of course, you should take certain steps before buying these plants. The ones that you get for your aquarium should be the ones that are commonly found underwater - the fish's real habitat. This holds true for everyone, since fishes are more comfortable with aquariums that look natural.

Generally, there are various kinds of freshwater aquarium plants. First type is the one grown in bulbs. These kinds of plants are usually large, with some being too large for normal-sized aquariums. Plants like these, aponogeton and water lilies for instance, would look much better on outdoor settings such as koi ponds.

Depending on what fish you decide to keep, you may think of buying floating plants. Floating plants are basically great choices if you have a young fry that wants to shield itself. A fairy moss is a good example of floating plants. You may also choose to buy live plants known as rhizomes. Such plants have thick stems with leaves growing on top. Rhizomes are called "runners", for they run over the substrate's surface. Once it spreads, it grows new leaves and roots. Two variations of rhizomes are Anubias and African Fern.

Another type of plant, and one of the most common ones, is a rosette. It typically looks like a crown with leaves growing above and roots growing below. By sending runners, they can cover the water and grow new plants as they "run". Most of these plans, such as the Sagittaria and Amazon Sword, create beautiful flowers.

One of the common aquatic plants available is a Java Moss. Also known as a java fern, this specific plant is a great choice for starter plants. It is a very heart plant that can exist regardless of the pH levels of the water.

For the "perfect" aquarium plant, you may opt for water wisteria. Similar to the Java Fern, this particular plant grows quickly. Furthermore, water wisteria can retain low algae content in the water. However, you need to be very cautious. This plant can use up the nutrients found in your water.

The anubias nana is another hearty plant. It is remarkable, since it has an ability of existing in just about any kind of environmental condition you put it in. The appearance of the plant is also worth noting, since it looks like a flower underwater. Also, if you have any herbivore fishes, you need not worry about your fishes eating this plant. But if you want to make the most out of anubias nana, you should place it on a stone or a tree root. A lillaeopsis is another good plant choice for your aquarium, especially if the aquarium is placed unter extreme sunlight.

Plants can add appeal to any type of freshwater aquarium. In fact, plants are more noticeable once you place different kinds of live plants on it. Though plants require additional care, you will find that it is all worth it in the end. You do not have to buy plants all at once. You can simply start off with one plant and as you go on and gain more experience with caring for plants, that's the time that you can start earning. In the end, you will see that it is a very enjoyable activity.

Froilan Ong and his partner Jason T. Ryan is the owner of Freshwater aquarium center. Jason Ryan is an aquarium enthusiast and loves to collect fish. For Great ideas and tips on

Freshwater Aquarium Plants, visit http://www.freshwateraquariumcenter.com.

Many thanks for reading our Java Fern Live article

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Plant Fish Tank

Where do i put my plant in my fish tank?

I have a plant for my cold water fish tank and i dont know where abouts in the tank i should put it, should i put it somewhere where my fish can swim round it or can i have it at the back so they have more room? & do the fish prefer to swim round it or not?

What is your coldwater fish as coldwater fish has many type of species.

If your fish are active and large is better for you to put the plant at the back of your tank.

This coldwater fish include goldfish and most schooling fish like white cloud mountain minnow and large fish include red shinner.

If your fish has territorial behaviour and aggressive like black-banded sunfish is better for you to put the plant at the middle of your tank as it may act as a shelter for other weaker tankmates.

And if you have spined loach as your coldwater fish you can put the plant some in the middle and some at the back .

Hope my information may help you and your fish.

Good luck.

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I personally have never been tempted by artificial aquarium plants but that is probably because I was already a keen gardener before I got my first aquarium so the choice between live plants and artificial plants seemed like a no brainer to me. It simply had to be live plants.

Sure, artificial aquarium plants are getting more and more natural looking all the time. They can do amazing things with silk and plastics these days. I mean, look at Barbie and Ken.

Seriously, I can see their appeal especially if you think that growing live aquarium plants is time consuming but let me reassure you on something. It is not time consuming to grow live aquarium plants. They are as easy to plant as their artificial cousins and once established hold fast to the bottom of the tank.

Fish love them and I don't mean that fish love to eat them. Most fish will leave your plants alone but they do enjoy swimming amongst them, resting in them and some of them will help keep them clean by nibbling on any algae that takes hold.

Live aquarium plants will keep your nitrate levels down by using it up as they grow. Now that's a trick that artificial aquarium plants can't do. No more controlling nitrates with chemicals and wondering what it is doing to your fish. Because live plants use up a lot of your nitrates you can do smaller water changes as the tank matures cutting down on maintenance and saving you time.

Yes, you may need to prune them occasionally but think positive, you are just removing nitrates when you prune them because they've been using up your poisonous nitrates and turning them into plant matter, so every time you have to prune your plants it is helping to keep your fish healthy.

And don't worry about the added co2 and even the extra lighting isn't as necessary as you may have been led to believe. There are lots of easy to grow plants that will thrive in low light and live quite happily without added co2. Okay, if you want them to grow super quick then go the co2 route but it isn't essential. I have been growing healthy aquarium plants for years with around two and a half watts per gallon lighting, much the same as an unplanted tank and without the extra carbon dioxide.

One of the things that I love about a planted tank is that it changes all the time. Go away for a week's holiday and see how the plants have changed when you get back. It looks natural, the fish look brighter and healthier in a natural environment and maybe I'm a bit shallow but I love the comments from friends and family when they see the tank and realise that it is all natural.

You see, just like you they think that growing live aquarium plants is difficult. But I know the secret. It's easy, but hey don't tell anyone!

If you found this article interesting and would like to know more about starting an aquarium check out my website at http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

Nick North is a keen freshwater aquarium enthusiast and spends a great deal of his time writing articles to promote the hobby to anyone interested in taking it up as a pastime. He has now got his own website aimed at the new aquarium enthusiast which gives lots of useful information on starting your first freshwater aquarium. If you found this article useful check out the site at:

http://www.aquariumhintsandtips.com

Many thanks for reading our Plant Fish Tank article

Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Bulbs Tetra

Is it possible for aquarium bulbs 2 cause a fishs color to fade?

I put a Aqua Glo bulb (15 watt) in my aquarium of guppies, neon tetras, etc...I had it on last night & noticed that the fish didn't seem to be as bright in color as they used to. Could they be fading? The water was a little cloudy because I'd just put in some waste control & it says it can fog the water for a bit. So could that be it or maybe my eyes playing tricks on me? Thanks!

Short answer yes.

HOwever there are many factors that effect your fish's color. Especially if the light is OUT over night. Fish tend to become very colorless which is a type of self defense. Once the light is on or the sun is up, they will return to their color. Your food can also be a factor in the color of your fish. If you have noticed this over the past few days and have changed the foods you are feeding them this could be the reason as well.

Also Please remember adding waste control chemicals are not the best thing for your tank. There is nothing that is more healthy for your tank than a water change when needed.

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Knowing the Types of Lighting Used in Freshwater Aquariums

Several different types of lighting are already available for fish tanks. Depending on the need for an artificial lighting and your aquarium specifications, you might need a specific type of lighting for your fish tank.

Incandescent bulbs are generally regarded as too ineffective for freshwater aquarium lighting. They use up energy far too high compared to their luminal output, and produce too much heat to make them suitable lighting for the inside of an aquarium. They can probably have some use for very simple and crude aquariums such as small glass bowls, but otherwise, you have to choose something better than these.

Fluorescent lighting is the standard de facto type of freshwater aquarium lighting that you can use for your fish tanks. It is relatively cheap and easy to find, plus it has a considerably high luminosity despite its lowered energy consumption. There are several types of fluorescent lamps that you can use for your aquarium, including the new generation compact fluorescent lamps that offer intense lighting capabilities of very high output (VHO) fluorescent bulbs without their short life span.

Metal halide lamps are considered to be upgraded incandescent bulbs in terms of their similarity in shape and lighting function, but their lighting capabilities are incomparable to the ole and crude incandescent bulbs. Their luminosity is so intense that they can even simulate the sun's bright yellow light, and are perfect for replicating actual marine habitat sceneries.

Determining the Right Type of Lighting to Use

Knowing what the right light source to use would require you to answer several questions about the general features and characteristics of marine life in your aquarium, as well as the specifications of the fish tank itself. If your fish tank has a relatively deeper water level than the average aquarium, then you may choose a light source that is brighter and probably more focused, in order to keep the light's luminosity as it goes deeper into your aquarium.

If your aquarium only has fish inside it, then you may just opt for low watt lighting from any effective light source. Don't worry: you only need to replace it once in a while. Do note, however, that the wattage should be at around 2-3 watts per tank gallon.

For fish tanks with live plants, it is generally desirable to have lighting with a minimum wattage of 4 watts per tank gallon. It's generally better if you can intensify the lighting, as marine plant life thrives better this way, but there are some kinds of plants that would need specialized lighting for them to live properly, so it's still recommended to do your own research.

Ways to install Artificial Lighting Effectively

Hobbyists just usually place the bulb at a general area overhead to scatter the light evenly across the fish tank. However, if you have live plants inside the aquarium, then it's recommended that you concentrate that light towards these plants, so that they can grow properly. Additionally, you should go further than just putting the light there and turning it on until the light bulb wears off. Hobbyists can create effects that can simulate day and night conditions using artificial lighting.

Marine life can get stressed quickly if they are subjected to light for a time longer than the light of the sun in a day would usually take. Likewise, they also get irritated easily when they receive less light that they should have taken in that day. So, in simulating the effects of day and night on a fish tank, not only are you able to get that realistic feel of natural marine life, but you can also make the fish and plants inside the aquarium feel at home, just as if they were living in their natural habitat.

Sandra Gaffney is a freshwater aquarium expert. For more great tips on freshwater aquarium lighting, visit http://www.myfreshwateraquariumsecrets.com/

Many thanks for reading our Bulbs Tetra article

Republished by Blog Post Promoter

Submersible Digital
i am planning on getting a 29 gallon salt water tank, what do i need???

i am planning on getting a tank that is 29 gallons and includes instant Ocean Sea Salt, a hydrometer, Visi-Therm submersible aquarium heater, plus add-ons a digital thermometer, and BIO-coat marine water conditioner, and a complete, 3-stage BIO-wheel filtration and high-quality fluorescent lighting is tucked up inside the hood. i am not sure what else i need, i am still deciding on whether i want live rock and sand in it, and what other decor's. i want 2 clown fish in the tank, a cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, and snails, i am not sure what else will be compatable with those, also, how would i go about starting out my aquarium, and how would i change the water in the tank.

I would strongly recommend that before you go too far in planning, that you do some research into the different types of tanks (fish-only, which is the easiest and cheapest; fish-only with live rock, which give you added biological filtration; and reef, which is the full-blown marine set-up with corals, anemones, shrimp, etc., which can be the most difficult and IS definitely the most expessive type). That's not to say you can't start with a fish-only, then add other items to the same tank as you get some experience and want to try more organisms.

A 29 is an okay size for a tank, but you may find it somewhat limiting on your livestock choices. I started with a 29, and added a 55 in 6 months. The larger of a tank you can use, the better - saltwater fish tend to be larger and more territorial/aggressive than traditional freshwater "community" fishes and more like cichlids in their behavior, so some planning is necessary on just what you can keep together.

If you need to get a stand for the tank, try to get solid wood. The particleboard stands won't hold up if they get wet and the glue separates, and the iron/metal stands will corrode if any salt gets on them (or, you could get a metal stand, just use a flannel-backed tablecloth under the tank to protect the stand from splashed water).

The following is a sort of checklist I've produced from previous answers to similar question:

FILTER: You'll want to get one that's properly sized (filters at least 5x-10x the tank volume per hour - check the gallons per hour rating). There are lots of choices, and what you'll need will really depend on budget, what you're trying to keep, and personal preference. I'd consider the best type to be a refugium or wet/dry trickle filter. Next best would be a canister, followed by a biowheel, or a standard hang-on-tank with large media (such as an AquaClear with the foam block). Unless you're using a fine sand or oolite substrate, you can also use an undergravel filter to supplement filtration, but I'd suggest powering it with a reversible powerhead to blow the water up through the substrate (prevents stuff from building up under the filter and clogging it).

POWERHEAD(S): To provide more water circulation in hard to get to places. This also helps circulate dissolved oxygen to the bottom of the tank. Have at least one for a 29, two or more for a larger tank.

HEATERS: For a saltwater tank 30 gallons or larger, I'd suggest getting 2 and putting one on each end. This will provide more even heating, and your tank has a back-up if one heater gives out. Figure the correct size as 5 watts per gallon (for a single heater) divided by 2 (if using 2 heaters). If you need to heat the water more than 10 degrees above the room temperature, go one wattage size higher. With your 29, you could go with getting either 1 or 2 heaters.

LIGHTING: If you never want anything but fish, you can use the standard lighting and hood made for your tank. You might want to upgrade the lamps to a 10,000K tube or a 50/50 actinic to produce a more "marine" look. If you're going to try corals, anemones, etc., go with a compact fluorescent, metal halide, T-5, or combo system - these will provide more intense light that these organisms need for photosynthesis.

SUBSTRATE - you want something made of aragonite to help keep the pH from changing, I like the smaller shell material that Carib-Sea puts out - it doesn't have to be live sand, either. Some folks like crushed coral, but the particle size is bigger than I like, and it tends to have a lot of dust that never rinses completely out. Another very fine grained material is oolitic aragonite (looks like small white balls) and aragonite sand. Here's an idea of the materials available: http://www.caribsea.com/pages/products/dry_aragonite.html While it's possible to keep a marine tank with regular aquarium gravel or no substrate, the aragonite will keep the pH from falling below 7.8 (it should be 8.2-8.4) and this can make the difference in the survival of your fish/organisms.

SALT MIX: If you're only keeping fish, you can go with one of the less expensive brands of synthetic sea salt. If you get any invertebrates (shrimp, snails, crabs, corals, anemones, etc.), switch to a better quality mix before you add them. These cost a little more, but you won't need to be using additives for the trace elements they need either.

HYDROMETER: This measures the amount of salt that's dissolved in water. There are two kinds you can get, one made of glass that floats on the surface (more accurate, but easy to break) and a plastic container that has a needle that rises and falls as the amount of salt changes (less accurate, bubbles attaching to the needle gives false readings). For fish only, you want the specific gravity to read 1.020 - 1.026. If you're keeping inverts, you want it to be 1.024 - 1.026.

WATER TESTING KIT: minimum of pH, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate.

CLEANING SUPPLIES: elbow length gloves, gravel vacuum, 5 gallon bucket, large plastic container and powerhead for mixing the salt (to be done well ahead of water changes, I use a plastic garbage can kept just for this), algae scraper, razor blades (for coraline algae and diatoms that like to attach to the glass).

WATER CONDITIONER: for removing chlorine or chloramine from your tap water (unless you plan to use a reverse osmosis filter or buy RO water, which is preferred for a reef tank).

The following are optional, but strongly suggested:

PROTEIN SKIMMER: This removes dissloved and small organic materials that would normally contribute to the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in your tank. Not 100% necessary for fish-only tanks, but will be handy if you have inverts to keep up good water quality by removing organic materials that become nutrients for algae.

GLASS COVER: This reduces evaporation and keeps the fish inside the tank (some are jumpers), although with a metal halide lighting system, it can overheat your tank.

LIVE ROCK: This gives the tank a more natural appearance, provides hiding places for the fish and inverts, and increases the biological filtration. Not to mention, you get all kinds of cool critters that hitchhike into your tank (shrimp, snails, sea urchins, sea cucumbers, sea stars, etc.).

CHILLER: If you use metal halide lighting, or the water temperature regularly gets above 85o (for corals or anemones, fish can take a little more heat), you may need to invest in a chiller to keep the tank cool. The water temperature should run 76-80oF.

There may be additional items that you could need, such as kalkwasser to raise your pH if you can't get it to 8.2, but you won't know these until you get the tank set up and running, and test your water.

You may decide that you want to use a UV sterilizer, but in my opinion, these are unnecessary. They don't necessarily kill all the parasites and disease-causing organisms, and they only affect free-floating algae, not any that's attached to your glass, rock, or substrate. The bulbs also need to be replaced yearly. Rather than pay the high price for one of these, you'd do better to buy an inexpensive 10 gallon setup kit and a heater and use these as a quarantine tank.

Before going out and buying all this, I would suggest some reading to see what you're getting into by keeping saltwater. I did research for almost 2 years before I set up my first tank, and I had about 20 years of freshwater aquarium experience already. Rushing into a saltwater setup usually doesn't give you good results, and the equipment and fish are a little too expensive to be finding out in a few weeks you got something that's not appropriate for what you want for your tank. I'd also recommend a good reference book for some research. Either of these would be a good one to start with: The New Marine Aquarium by Michael S. Paletta. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-52-1 or The Conscientious Marine Aquarist by Robert M. Fenner. Microcosm Ltd. ISBN 1-890087-02-5

Some web sites you can check out for more info on keeping saltwater are the following:

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marsetupez.htm

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marineSetUp.htm

http://www.peteducation.com/index.cfm?cls=16

http://www.wetwebmedia.com/

As far as the fish, what species are good for starters will depend largely on your interests. Even though they are hardy, I recommend against damels, mostly because of their aggressivness - add one of these, and they'll terrorize any fish you try to introduce later. The exception I'd make here is the green reef chromis (peaceful).

Also, keep in mind if you plan to add corals, anemones, snails, shrimp, crabs, hermits, stars, or others in the future, you may want to stick with reef-safe fish from the start.

You'll want to add the smallest and most peaceful species first, and this will reduce some of the aggression in the tank. It's a general guideline that you shouldn't mix fish of the same color or body shape, or different species from the same families to prevent any of the fish from seeing another as a potential rival. There are a few species that can be kept in schools or in mated pairs, but this is the exception rather than the rule. I prefer the smaller semi-aggressive and peaceful species myself, but your preferences might be different. Some of the ones I would recommend as starters are the chromis, a pair of ocellaris clown (the "Nemo" fish - any two juveniles will work because the dominant one will become a female, the other a male), cardinalfish (if you have a good saltwater person at your fish store, they should be able to pick out a male and female for you), longnose hawkfish, canary blenny, jawfish, clown goby, scissortail gobies, and firefish. That's far more than you should keep in a 29 as adults, so you'll need to so

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Choosing Based on Metal Detector Prices

Almost everywhere you go, you can find metal detectors at work. These devices are not exclusive to mining and big establishments; they are also present in hobbies such as prospecting and treasure hunting. Because of their various uses, they can cost a lot. The following is a list of common features based on metal detector prices:

Under $90

Some metal detectors range from $5 to $40. Various common features of metal detectors under $90 are the following:

- Usually comes with one-year warranty - Provides two to three audio pitches - Other models produce different sounds for different types of metal - Operates on two 9-V batteries - Has waterproof coil to prevent damage from rough terrain, snow, and rain - Has sensitivity meter, built-in speaker, and headphone jack - Discrimination mode rejects iron and trash - Detects small objects five to seven inches deep and larger objects three feet deep

Between $90 - $240

Metal detectors in this price range have more features compared to the cheaper devices.

- Usually comes with five-year warranty - Three levels of iron discrimination - Interchangeable waterproof search coil - Detects small objects six to eight inches deep and larger objects three feet deep - Comes with touch pad selection - Automatic ground balance and automatic tuning

Between $240 - $570

Metal detectors in this price range have more advanced features for comfortable and easy use.

- Variable notch and auto notch modes - Up to 4-level iron discrimination - Rugged construction with battery-pack hip-mount option - Most include carry pouch and digger - Displays target ID/depth readout - Digital depth indicator and touch pad - 9-segment digital target identification - 24-segment notch discrimination

Between $570 - $1000

Metal detectors in this price range are built for professionals and users who make use of more advanced features.

- Volume control and speaker - Surface mount PC board technology - Iron rejection in various frequencies - Digital signal processor - Depth measurement - Adjustable tone ID and graphic target analyzer

Over $1000

Metal detector prices that reach over $1000 are those that are commonly used in big establishments or professional level uses. These metal detectors can be used anywhere in any situation.

- Submersible to up to 200 feet - Rechargeable system for house and auto - Operates on NiMH rechargeable batteries - Comes with a carry case and high-end headphones - 9.5 to 12.5-inch imaging search coil

Metal detectors should not be judged based on price alone. If you know how to properly use and maintain the metal detector, it can last long, regardless of how much it was bought for.

The metal detector prices are determined by the brand, model, and its features. Instead of focusing on the brand, look at the features. List down the features you will need so when it comes to choosing a metal detector, you will not end up buying one that has too many features that you will not need.

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Aquarium Live
How would i Plant Live Aquarium Plants in my Fish Tank?

how would i do this??? and also what types of plant would be good for a betta?

How big is your tank? A betta will appreciate just about any plant that will fit.

I keep a betta in a heavily planted10 gallon tank. I have java ferns, water wisteria, a small sword plant, hornwort, drift wood, rocks, and a sand & river pebble mixed substrate. My betta loves the hornwort, because it floats at the top of the tank and he can just punch his way into it and just hang out in there for a while.

The java vern is tied to rocks w/ fishing line, and the wisteria & sword are just pushed into the substrate where they rooted themselves.

I wouldn't recommend leaving plants inside the pots they come in, nor leaving any lead weights attached to plants that you put in the tank. The pots and lead can leech harmful substances into your tank.

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General Care for the Freshwater Aquarium

Okay, so you have decided that you want to own an aquarium. It is a good idea to make out a wish list before purchasing any fish for the aquarium. Keeping an aquarium will require patience. Unfortunately, it is not realistic to go the pet store and just start picking out fish. Take a trip to the pet store in order to gather information and window shop to determine the types of fish you wish to keep in your aquarium. Carefully research these fish to ensure that they are compatible for water temperatures and P.H., as well as the food that they eat. Be careful not to put prey and predator together in the same tank. Keep in mind that freshwater fish are hardier than the marine variety, and will be less susceptible to water fluctuations.

One reason that freshwater fish are hardier than saltwater fish is the saltwater itself. Just like any living creature, a fish's body requires water in order to function properly. Water is absorbed through a fish's skin in the freshwater environment. Alternatively, a saltwater fish actually has to drink the salt water, because the body fluids are extracted through the skin by osmosis. The salt is then excreted in the form of highly concentrated urine. Freshwater fish are a good choice for an inexperienced aquarium owner because there is more wiggle room in the water specifications. Some freshwater fish have a variation of as much as ten degrees of acceptable water temperature. Conversely, most tropical fish will only allow about two degrees of variation in water temperature

It is not uncommon for the novice fish keeper to become easily discouraged. Water conditions are hard to regulate and unfortunately fish, even the freshwater variety, are not the hardiest of creatures. Sometimes they do not survive these fluctuations. It is important to be patient. An aquarium needs to run for a minimum of twenty four hours before adding any fish at all. You may want to allow the tank to run and filter with decorations and any plant life for a few days before introducing the fish. Be sure to clean the decorations and any substrate thoroughly before adding them to the aquarium. Live plants are highly recommended in new aquariums as they will help to generate the good bacteria necessary to reduce the amount of ammonia in the tank. It is a good idea to test the ammonia and nitrite levels before adding fish to the aquarium. Begin by adding only three to four small fish. A general rule is to wait another thirty days before adding additional fish, because that is the incubation period for most fish illnesses. In addition, test the nitrite and ammonia levels before adding these additional fish. The ammonia levels should return to zero. This also takes about a month.

There are a few basic tips that will keep fish healthy. Don't over feed the fish. Any excess food will become debris in the tank, and then turns into ammonia, which is toxic to fish. Change the water in the aquarium regularly. Replace approximately one third of the water in the tank every two to three weeks. This will minimize the disruption to the fish in the aquarium, eliminating the need to remove the fish from the tank. Lastly, don't forget to clean the filter. Follow the manufacturer's instructions, as some filters need to be replaced more frequently than others

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Aquarium Reverse Osmosis
Freshwater Aquarium - Reverse Osmosis System?

I am setting up a new 55 gallon freshwater aquarium. I live in an area where the supply water has a high degree of hardness. Is it worthwhile for me to invest in a RO water purifier for my aquarium needs? What are some of the things I need to keep in mind in selecting one? What are some good brands?
The aquarium that I am setting up now is for goldfish, but I will be setting up another one for tropical fish soon. So I will be sharing the RO system between the two.

Using RO can be a pain. It takes all the bad elements from the water and all the good ones too. You have to supplement the water before you can use it. Also is is horribly watseful of water resources, it can waster up to 9 gals for every usable gallon of water you get.
Personally I would rather stick to treated tap water.

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Automatic Fish Food

What type of food is best for a freshwater fish automatic feeder?

Just got a fish feeder to set up at my lake in Central Louisiana. Wanting to attract catfish, bream and crappie. But, not wanting to attract turtles, gar, and jack fish. What type is better: floating or sinking? Where can I buy it in like a 50 lb sack?

Pretty much any feed and seed store or FRM dealer will have food in 40 or 50 pound bags. I'd go with the floating food, and it will help you keep track of the fish activity when they feed on top of the water.

Get a game fish chow, rather than a catfish food.

The fish that get accustomed to that feeder will come to it when they hear the feed hiting the water, after a few feedings it wont be floating away.

They turtle are just something ou'll have to deal with.

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There is no need to avoid vacations or worry about your fish tank aquariums while you are away if you follow the subsequent advice.

Feeding

Fish do not need to be fed everyday and having a couple of days without food will actually help fish clear out their digestive systems and will also have a beneficial effect on your tank aquariums because of reduced pollution. So if you plan to be away only a couple of days, there is no need to worry about feeding - your fish will survive! Do not be tempted to give them an extra large meal before you leave as overfeeding can cause serious problems and it is much more harmful than underfeeding!

If you are going away for longer you may want to ask someone to feed your fish. Unless they are an aquarist, be sure to pre-measure the food for each day you are away and put the portions into containers marked for the particular day.

Another option is to use vacation blocks of food which come in weekend size up to 14 day size. These blocks are made of Plaster-of-Paris mixed with fish food. As the Plaster-of-Paris dissolves in the water, the fish can eat the food.

The alternative which I am happiest with when I cannot call on someone is to set up an automatic fish feeder. They are normally battery-powered and simply clip on to you tank aquariums. You fill them with the appropriate dry foods for your fish and set them to give one or several meals per day. Since your fish are left to depend on this automatic dispenser for their food, ensure it is working properly by testing it for a number of days beforehand.

Water

A few days before you leave, give your fish tank aquariums a thorough clean and do 20% water changes each day for 3 or 4 days. This will keep the water quality as high as possible while you are away. If you are going to be away longer than 7-10 days, it is a good idea to prepare some water mix in a bucket so that someone can top-up your tropical freshwater aquariums. For a longer vacation, it is important to show the person who is looking after your fish tank aquariums how to do partial water changes.

Equipment

Check all equipment carefully before your departure, ensuring the water is at the correct temperature, the filter is working properly, the lighting switches on and off automatically at the correct time of the day and, if necessary, the automatic feeder is working.

Lastly, if someone is looking after your freshwater aquarium, be sure to leave them a reminder checklist and your contact number!

Back Home...

You have had a super vacation seeing wonderful sights, having great experiences and enjoying lots of fun and you feel relaxed and refreshed...! As a priority you need to check your fish carefully to ensure they are healthy and then perform a water change to bring the water chemistry into alignment. I am sure that you will find everything is fine and you can continue caring for your fish as normal.

Copyright © 2009 Jill Kaestner @ Kaestner Marketing LLC

Jill Kaestner
From a childhood fascination with fish, begun by winning my first goldfish at 5 years old at a May Day fun event, to becoming a passionate aquarist/retailer, I aim to provide you with professional advice on setting up, stocking and servicing your freshwater aquarium so you too can enjoy the wonders of the underwater world. With personal experience in tropical freshwater aquariums and extensive professional research, information and advice in my articles can be trusted. My love for our fish friends motivates me to share advice with others which will promote their fishes' welfare and thereby their own lasting enjoyment and success as aquarists. Why not have a look at my website through the link provided here?
Fish Tanks Aquariums

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Tank Aquarium Air
Saltwater aquarium - Air pump advice please?

I have a 200 litre aquarium with an internal and external filter. I want to install an air pump to the tank (mainly for decorative purposes).

You dont really use air pumps and stones in marine aquariums because it could be potientally harmful to the fish.

But a simple air pump, air tubing connecting to a check valve and then connected to any air stone will be the simpliest setup for an air pump in a marine and freshwater aquarium.

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Your Guide To Keeping Tropical Fish: How To Choose Tropical Fish Species & The Best Equipment For Your Home Aquarium

Whether it's your first fish tank or your a master fish keeper with saltwater aquariums & freshwater aquariums, we all occassionly have a question we don't know the answer to regarding our tropical fish and the home aquarium. This guide to the care and keeping of tropical fish will serve as a handy reference to make sure your home aquarium is a beautiful addition to your home.Get your copy now. You owe it to yourself and your spouse.

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